Install is straight forward, if you doubt your capabilities in any way you should refer this job to a professional! Working with your brake hydraulic system is a serious endeavor that should only be undertaken by an experienced individual. You'll need a 8mm & 13mm wrench and a 11mm line wrench, along with T15 driver. An assistant may be beneficial to hold the hydraulic lines towards the engine so as not to scratch the pump while levering it into place. Seat both rear rubber mounts into their chassis cups first and them swing the front of the pump into its perch. Install lines, carefully tighten fittings and move on to bleeding.
It is recommended to use a power bleeder along with an assistant. Initial round of bleeding with the power bleeder alone will push the most fluid through the system. Once the fluid is at each caliper have an assistant help with the traditional "2 man" method of pumping the brake pedal and then releasing the pressure at each caliper while holding the pedal and repeating until the pedal becomes firm and linear. Test braking operation from stand still and once satisfied test drive the vehicle and when situated and in a safe space attempt to engage the ABS. If all feels well you are done, else one more round of bleeding may be required.
These pumps are guaranteed to work as well as originally engineered for the purchaser. Each pump is serialized. Provided no malfeasance befalls the pump it is warrantied for a period of 1 year from its ship date. Should a problem arise in this time period please contact directly to arrange for warranty replacement. Cross shipping available with deposit as inventory units allow to ensure minimal down time. Warranty coverage is limited to the original purchase price of the pump or its current replacement cost and does not cover improper installation, labor charges, fluids, consequential damages and or loss of use.
Avoid acidic or alkaline cleaners, wash pump with pH neutral soap and water only and thoroughly dry when done. Driving in wintery conditions in climates that spread sodium chloride (NaCl) as a deicer will as with any bare aluminum or zinc plated parts cause degradation of the outward cosmetic appearance.
Manually running the pump motor and cycling the solenoids is not mandatory to successfully purge the air from the pump, but if you feel the need to do so anyway independent of computer control:
***Remove chassis harness connector***
Pin 4: 12v supply to solenoids
Pin 1/3/5: Pulsed ground to activate solenoids
Pin 9: Pulsed 12v to run motor (will push small amount of fluid through pump)